With respect to the f/ ratio of a telescope, you can't look at it exactly the same way you do photography. In photography, going to a higher f/ ratio does widen your depth of focus, due to the pinpoint camera effect. This does still hold in telescopes, but remember that in a telescope, all items you look at can basically be condidered to be at the same distance -- infinity.<br /><br />The f number of a telescope is calculated by dividing its aperture in millimeters by its focal length in millimeters. Other posters have claimed that higher f numbers are better for cheaper eyepieces, which is correct. This is because a telescope like this gives a narrower light cone to the eyepiece, meaning the eyepiece only has to work well for a narrower portion of its lens groups.<br /><br />But in general, the most important number to look at when buying a telescope is aperture. Above all, aperture is king. Aperture decides how much light you can gather, and therefore how faint of objects you can see. Aperture determines, because of diffraction, what your maximum useful magnification can be. You can add lots of things to a telescope after buying it -- more eyepieces, a better mount, filters, goto packages, finderscopes, whatever -- but you can't add aperture. Probably the next most important thing, depending on what you want to do with it, is the mount. A shaky mount makes a shaky image in the eyepiece. Mounts rarely get attention, but they are very important.<br /><br />If I had a choice, I would get a Celestron 9.25" XLT SC scope. And I wouldn't get goto. And I would get the beefiest mount I could for my budget.<br /><br />Another way to go, and for much less money, is a large Dobsonian telescope from Orion or Obsession. You can get a LOT more aperture if you want to, while sacrificing equitorial tracking...<br /><br />Scott